Yapashi Pueblo and Stone Lions
I had been looking forward to this hike for some time, and finally the weather and family schedules worked out. I enjoy my solo hikes, but for longer ones I do prefer the company of a friend. Fortunately, I'm blessed with a wonderful friend who also enjoys hiking! We arrived at Bandelier National Monument at about 10:00am and finished our hike at about 4:20pm. The weather was perfect...mid-60s degrees F with a breeze just when I needed it.
The first canyon we hiked out of was Frijoles, the trailhead being to the west of the Bandelier Visitor Center and parking lot. While I have visited Bandelier National Park dozens of times over the decades of living in the area, I had never viewed the dwellings from the perspective of climbing up the opposing canyon wall. The gradual incline, combined with my excitement of starting out, made for a fairly easy trek out of the canyon.
The second canyon was Lummis Canyon, a small and pretty interruption in the landscape with junipers and ponderosas providing some shade and scenery.
Finally we reached the big one, Alamo Canyon. The sight was awe-inspiring with 500ft drops, layers of past geological activities on the canyon walls, and tent rock formations at the bottom. Acknowledging we had to descend and ascend the canyon, twice, was a bit mentally challenging. I was thankful for the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), that most likely helped create the trail and stone stairs during the 1930s.
Once we reached the top of Alamo canyon our pace quickened as we knew we weren’t far from Yapashi Pueblo, and the most difficult part of the hike was behind us (well, until the trip back). This was also the first part of our journey we encountered others on the trail. The first was a park ranger, who was friendly and made sure we had adequate maps/location services (we did...since there is no cell service at some points, I had downloaded the map from AllTrails). We also encountered a group of ten sprawled out (sitting and lying down) in the middle of the trail. We walked around them somewhat annoyed. The final group we encountered was eating their lunch and reclining on top of the Pueblo. I am including this as a reminder to be respectful of historical sites! These ancient sites are delicate, and they are also still visited by their local descendants.
Despite the annoyances of others' behavior, viewing the Yapashi Pueblo and Stone Lions Shrine (about a half mile down the trail), brought with it a sense of wonder and respect for those who walked these trails before us. I once read that some believe one of the Stone Lions is actually a jaguar from a time when jaguars still roamed New Mexico, before they were exterminated by hunters in the 18th and 19th century, and I wondered if this was true. And hoped it was.
After a quick lunch, it was time for our trek back. Despite my pride, I did need to take a few breaks on the ascent out of Alamo canyon...but we did it. I was thankful for my companion who kept my spirits up! While descending back into Frijoles Canyon, we came across two deer. One watched us for a bit, and I couldn’t help but feel like it was the day’s farewell. I do hope to return this season and try the 16 mile loop (Alltrails clocked us at 14.5 miles due to some back and forth between Yapashi and Stone lions). It was a great day filled with accomplishments, awe, and friendship.
💚 Katie







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